BHUTAN
The Last Vajrayana Buddhist Kingdom's Journey
Through the Looking Glass
Much like Alice in Lewis Carroll's fantastical tale, embarking on a journey to Bhutan is akin to stepping through the looking glass into a realm of wonder, enchantment, and discovery. In Bhutan, you don't merely travel; you transcend the ordinary and enter a world where time flows differently, and reality takes on a magical hue.
As you cross into Bhutan, you leave the world you know behind, just as Alice did when she ventured through the looking glass. Located in the Eastern Himalayas, Bhutan remains cocooned in a time bubble, between Tibet to the north and bordered by Indian states like Sikkim, Arunachal Pradesh, and Assam to the west, east, and south, safeguarding its traditions and culture like cherished treasures. The landscapes, much like Wonderland's whimsical scenery, are a visual feast. Verdant valleys, majestic mountains, and pristine rivers paint a breathtaking picture that seems straight out of a storybook. This small kingdom has captured the hearts of many travelers with its unique approach to life, culture, and governance.
Here, you can find earthly pleasures: Archery, Bhutan's national sport and age-old crafts, dishes of homemade cheese and fearsomely hot chilies, breathtaking treks and restorative hot-stone baths. But there's another Bhutan, too—the one hinted at by the prayer flags strung across gorges and fluttering on every hillside. It's where irreverent humor meets deeply held beliefs, and epic landscapes and slow journeys create room for quiet awe. In this Bhutan, you can enhance your well-being. Over 70% forested and the world's first carbon-negative country, Bhutan is not only home to a gentle and charming population but also boasts rich biodiversity, including more than 600 orchid species. Bhutan offers not just one experience but many, from storied cities to soaring mountains.
Bhutan's Spiritual Journey
The main sects of Tibetan Buddhism practised in Bhutan differ from those in Tibet and elsewhere. Although Bhutan's Buddhism has Tibetan origins, it notably varies in its rituals, liturgy, and monastic organisation. This distinction arises from Bhutan's founders fleeing Tibet for religious and political reasons, along with their strong desire to set Bhutan apart from the expansionist Tibetans. Reformed Bhutanese Buddhism holds significant influence in the daily lives of its people. The state religion has long received financial support from the government through annual subsidies to Buddhist monasteries, shrines, monks, and nuns.
Today, Buddhism plays a central role in Bhutan's development, shaping its societal values and cultural identity. Serving as both a guiding philosophy and cultural cornerstone, Buddhism influences Bhutan's policies, education, and ethical values. It inspires the nation's unwavering commitment to Gross National Happiness (GNH) over Gross Domestic Product (GDP), fostering an environment of compassion and mindfulness. Furthermore, Bhutan's resolute dedication to environmental conservation, social welfare, and cultural preservation finds its profound roots in Buddhist principles. Thereby attracting pilgrims and tourists alike. In essence, Buddhism there isn't merely a religion but a way of life that profoundly influences Bhutan's distinctive approach to well-being and sustainable development, exemplified by Happiness.
Several key religious figures have shaped what Bhutan is today.
First and foremost is Guru Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche, an 8th-century Indian tantric master referred to as the second Buddha. His teachings form the foundation of Bhutanese Buddhism, and he is renowned for consecrating the cave where Tiger's Nest Monastery now stands and for subduing local demons.
Then, there's Yeshe Tsogyal, often seen as Guru Rinpoche's female counterpart. She was a great yogini and practitioner who played a pivotal role in transcribing, preserving, and spreading his teachings, serving as a symbol of wisdom in Bhutan.
Drukpa Kunley, known as the 'Divine Madman,' used unconventional methods like songs and comedy for teaching and has a dedicated temple in Punakha.
Perma Lingpa, a contemporary of the Divine Madman, was a treasure revealer who discovered hidden sacred texts, including one in the 'Burning Lake,' and is known for a 25kg chainmail cloak housed at Tamshing Gompa in Bumthang.
Lastly, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, a Tibetan who arrived in Bhutan in 1616, laid the foundation for modern Bhutan. He taught Buddhist scripture and built dzongs, which became centers for civil and religious administration, setting the blueprint for future dzongs in the country.
Paro
Paro, a picturesque valley, is steeped in Buddhism and Bhutanese mythology. A city that is an enchanting destination, adorned with prominent landmarks that include Rimpong Dzong, a fortress that echoes with history, and Ta Dzong, another fortress with its own tales to tell. However, the crown jewel of Paro is the awe-inspiring Paro Taktsang Monastery, famously known as Tiger's Nest. Perched on a granite cliff approximately 1000 meters above the valley, Taktsang Monastery is a sight that will leave you in awe.
Thimphu
In Bhutan's capital city, Thimphu, a treasure trove of culture and history awaits. Semtokha Dzong, an ancient fortress, stands as a living testament to Bhutan's past. The National Memorial Chorten (Stupa) provides a tranquil space for contemplation and reverence. Dominating the landscape is a colossal Buddha statue that adds to Thimphu's splendor. The 12th-century Changangkha Lhakhang (Temple) offers a window into Bhutan's spiritual heritage, while the national library houses ancient scriptures. For those seeking serenity, the magnificent Tango and Cheri monasteries offer a peaceful retreat. A short drive from the city brings you to the Dochula Pass, situated at an elevation of 3050 meters. Here, you'll be greeted by 108 Chorten (Stupas) and a monastery, all while enjoying sweeping panoramic views of the majestic Himalayan mountain range. In these captivating sites, Thimphu's cultural and spiritual richness comes to life.
Punakha Valley
Punakha's lush green valley is dominated by the Punakha Dzong, known as the 'Palace of Great Happiness.' This vast walled palace, with a monastery inside, stands majestically at the confluence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu Rivers. Constructed in the 17th century as the region's religious and administrative center, it remains Bhutan's most spectacular building, attracting both cultural and spiritual enthusiasts. In the same valley, the Chimi Lhakhang temple, dating back to 1499, is a must-see, dedicated to Lama Drukpa Kinley, also known as the 'Divine Madman.'
Trongsa
Trongsa has regal connection, the historical town was once the seat of power of Bhutan’s Wangchuck Dynasty that ruled the country in 1907. Trongsa Dzong, most impressive dzong (fortress) of Bhutan, guards the town from its hilltop location, narrating Bhutan's past and overlooking the picturesque Mangde Chhu gorges.
Bumthang Valley
One of Bhutan's most historic districts, abounds with sacred sites, artifacts, monasteries, and a rich Buddhist heritage. It was here, at the Jakar Dzong or the ‘Fortress of the White Bird’, Guru Rinpoche worked his healing magic on a local king, banishing a pesky spirit-induced ailment. The goal was to subdue the rampant evil spirits that were seen to be overtaking the Himalayan region. The venture was clearly a resounding success, as it is now a welcoming wonderland for any traveller. It's also the birthplace of the famous Pema Lingpa, and many other revered yogis called this place home.
In this richly fertile region brimming with rice fields and apple groves, the area surrounding Bumthang is dotted with over 100 monasteries and temples built back in the 7th century, kingdom's oldest Buddhist temples to be found.
Bumthang consists of four valleys: Chokhor, Tang, Chhume, and Ura, with Ura being particularly noteworthy for its traditional village and medieval ambiance.
Heading east to the Ura Valley reveals charming villages with closely clustered houses. The settlements with cobbled streets, farmhouses with sheep pastures, and potato fields. The remarkable cottage industries offers village butter, cheese, honey, and the locally brewed Red Panda beer – making it a rare treat for visitors.
Bumthang literally translates into a “beautiful field”. Although the route by road into central Bhutan is long, it is a scenic marvel. Bumthang’s typically broad U-shaped valleys and gently sloping mountains are also ideal for those wishing to explore by foot.
Gangtey and Phobjikha Valley
Regarded as the happiest place in Bhutan, the Phobjikha Valley is one of the few glacial valleys in the country. The valley is also known as Gangtey, holds a special place in the hearts of nature enthusiasts. Nestled within a vast U-shaped glacial valley, it is encircled by striking black mountain ranges, creating a captivating contrast to the lush forests that define much of Bhutan. Gangtey is renowned not only for its breathtaking beauty but also for its status as a wildlife conservation area, making it a haven for wildlife lovers. Here, you'll encounter diverse flora and fauna, with the annual migration of the rare black-necked crane from the Tibetan plateau being a notable spectacle. The Black Crane Festival, a cherished winter event at Gangtey Gonpa monastery, celebrates the arrival of these magnificent birds and their ceremonial significance. Gangtey is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts, offering fantastic trekking and mountain biking opportunities. Among the most rewarding routes is the exhilarating trail stretching from Gangtey Gonpa in the Phobjikha Valley to the Kungathang Lhakhang, providing an unforgettable experience for adventurers.